Surfers Dilemma 1 - Just one more wave....

Brighton Marina by Mat Hammond

This is an old blog post but one I particularly like as I thought it up while sitting in the line-up.
‘One more wave and I’m going in’ I think to myself when I know I should be making tracks.
After that one, I think, ‘That last wave was a good one. Maybe just one more wave.’
After that one, I think, ‘Hmm, there’s still half an hour of tide left, maybe just one more wave.’
After that one I think, ‘That last one was a bit bigger, perhaps there’s a new pulse of swell. Maybe just one more wave.’
After that one I think, ‘Wow, I’m surfing like a god – I can’t waste this talent. Maybe just one more wave.’
After that one I think, ‘The winds dropped. It’s glassing off. Maybe just one more wave.’
After that one I think, ‘I’ve not dedicated enough waves to my wife / daughter / mum / deceased dad. Maybe just one more wave.’
After that one I think, ‘People are getting out. More waves for me. Maybe just one more wave.’
After that one I think, ‘I don’t know when my next surf will be. What if it’s not for weeks? Maybe just one more wave.’
After that one I think, ‘This spot is threatened by development, or climate change. I need to fill my boots while its still here. Maybe just one more wave.’
After that one I think, ‘I really stuffed up the take-off on that one. I’ve got to have another go. Maybe just one more wave.’
After that one I think, ‘I’m getting cold. Soon I’ll be getting frostbite. Maybe just one more wave.’
After that one I think, ‘It’s getting dark but I can still see the lines coming in. Maybe just one more wave.’
After that one I think, ‘What’s that shadow in the water? Could it be a shark? I’m going in.’