What motivates you to surf?

The question is being asked by Sophie for her dissertation, focusing on the relationship between motivation and gender. Sounds heavy. But there are some interesting questions, including:
'To show others how good I am at surfing' and 'I want to be involved in the surfing lifestyle'. I wonder how many people really do it to show off and because its regarded as 'cool'.

I found myself answering 'does not correspond at all' to most of the questions, which made me wonder why I DO surf. It was a combination of 'being at one with the ocean' and 'the thrill' I think.

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